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Proper Cloth’s VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Light Navy Fresco Lite® Single Pleat Trouser

This is Drake's house trouser, made in Italy in a lighter version of fresco, a high-twist wool cloth from a Yorkshire mill. It has a mid-rise and a single reverse pleat on each side, and the leg tapers gently so the line stays neat without being narrow. The finishing is in the tailoring tradition: an extended tab front with a French bearer, side adjusters in place of belt loops, and a small split at the back of the hem. It is half-lined to the knee and has a curtained waistband, so it can be worn with tailoring or with more casual clothes.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant

We chose a navy fresco from Vitale Barberis Canonico because it is a plain, open-weave, high-twist wool close to the original in colour, surface and weight, and it keeps the dry, slightly crisp feel that fresco is known for. We kept the single pleats, the extended button tab with zip fly, the dark brown horn buttons, the plain unturned hem and a lining to the knee. The version as made has belt loops, not side adjusters. Its options also do not record an after-dinner split or a curtained waistband, so those details are not carried over.

The cloth is a plain-weave fresco woven in Biella by Vitale Barberis Canonico. It is solid navy, listed at 240 g, with an open structure that lets air through and a matte, slightly dry surface. Like most fresco, it should resist creasing well and is best suited to warm weather.

Composition
100% Wool
Weight
medium weight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Style
Dress Trouser
Hem
No Cuff (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Dark Brown Horn
Fly
Zipper
Brace buttons
No
Closure
Extended Button Tab (change this in Customize)
Side pockets
Side Seam Pockets (change this in Customize)
Back pockets
Standard with Button
Coin pocket
None
Front
Single Pleats
Knee lining
Striped

$295

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.