Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Navy Linen Palermo Pant in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2022

Navy Irish Linen Flat Front Trouser

This is the trouser half of a navy linen summer suit, cut from a soft linen that is woven and dyed in Ireland and made up in Italy. It follows Drake's mid-rise house pattern, with a flat front for a slimmer line and a gentle taper below the knee. The tailoring details are quiet: an extended tab front, a curtained waistband with an internal French bearer, a prong keeper for the belt and a small split at the back of the hem. It is half lined and can be worn with its jacket or separately in warm weather.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Navy Linen Palermo Pant

We chose a plain-weave navy linen from Portugal for its solid colour and natural slub texture, which come close to the softness and look of the Irish cloth. We cut it as a dress trouser rather than the drawstring style Proper Cloth shows this cloth in, with a flat front, side seam pockets, belt loops, a zip fly and an extended tab that buttons through, to follow the original's front. Proper Cloth's options do not include a curtained waist, French bearer or rear hem split, so we used its standard chino waistband with a button and slate horn buttons, and finished the hem blind rather than leaving it unhemmed.

A pure linen woven in Portugal in a plain weave and listed at medium weight, in a solid navy. The weave shows the slubby surface of the yarn, the hand is soft from the start, and the cloth creases readily as it is worn, which is normal for linen.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry

Options

Style
Dress Pant (change this in Customize)
Front pockets
Side Seam Pockets (change this in Customize)
Back pockets
Chino Standard with Button (change this in Customize)
Fly
Zipper Fly
Buttons
Slate Horn Buttons
Waistband
Belt Loops (change this in Customize)
Front
No Pleats
Coin pocket
None
Cargo pockets
None
Closure
Tab with Button Through (change this in Customize)
Hem
Blind Hem (change this in Customize)
Pocketing
Navy (change this in Customize)
Thread
Standard

$215

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Navy Linen Palermo Pant in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.