Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Navy Cadet Chino in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2022

Navy Cotton Flat Front Chino

Drake's navy chino is a flat-front cotton trouser cut to a mid-century line, with a high rise that sits just above the hip and a full leg that narrows gently below the knee. Side adjusters are fitted alongside the belt loops, a practical detail taken from work and service trousers, and an internal French bearer neatens the fastening. It is made in Portugal from a substantial Italian cotton twill intended to be washed often, and it is meant to be worn in every season, with a belt or without one.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Navy Cadet Chino

We chose a heavy two-ply navy cotton twill so that it would match the weight and plain, washable character of the original, and we picked it over the softer stretch chino cloths. We set a flat front, zip fly, a button at the waistband, horn buttons and belt loops, and chose a high rise with a loose leg to come close to the full mid-century shape. Proper Cloth offers side seam pockets rather than Drake's vertical pockets, and its options do not include side adjusters or a French bearer, so we kept belt loops only. In their place the cut comes with Proper Cloth's vintage chino construction.

A navy two-ply left-hand cotton twill woven in Portugal, at about 9.6 oz (325 g) per metre, heavier than most chino cloths. It is firm enough to hold its shape and drapes a little more softly than a right-hand twill would. It softens slowly with washing rather than wearing thin.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry

Options

Style
Vintage Chino
Front pockets
Side Seam Pockets (change this in Customize)
Back pockets
Chino Standard with Button
Fly
Zipper Fly
Buttons
Chestnut Horn Buttons (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops
Front
No Pleats
Coin pocket
None (change this in Customize)
Cargo pockets
None
Closure
Button Through
Hem
Wide Hem
Pocketing
Navy
Thread
Standard

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Navy Cadet Chino in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.