Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2024

Navy Tropical Wool Single Pleat Trouser

A navy dress trouser in tropical merino, cut to Drake's mid-rise house pattern with a single forward pleat and a gentle taper below the knee. It follows tailoring conventions: an extended front tab, an internal French bearer, a curtained waistband, side adjusters in place of belt loops and an after-dinner split at the back of the waistband. It is made in Italy, half lined, and sent out with unfinished hems so the length can be set by the owner. The lightweight, high-twist cloth suits it to wear across the year, with tailoring or more casual pieces.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant

We chose a navy fresco from Vitale Barberis Canonico because, like the original's tropical cloth, it is a high-twist, open plain-weave wool made for warm weather, in a plain navy with a matte surface. We kept the single pleats, the extended button tab, the zip fly, the vertical side seam pockets and a buttoned rear pocket. Proper Cloth's design used belt loops rather than side adjusters, a knee lining rather than a half lining, and a finished hem with no turn-up. The buttons are dark grey horn rather than navy horn-tone.

A solid navy fresco from Vitale Barberis Canonico in Biella, woven as an open plain weave from wool at around 240 g. It has a dry, slightly matte hand and lets air through readily, and it is crisp enough to hold a pleat in warm weather.

Composition
100% Wool
Weight
medium weight
Care
Professionally Dry-Clean Only

Options

Style
Dress Trouser
Hem
No Cuff (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Dark Grey Horn (change this in Customize)
Fly
Zipper
Brace buttons
No
Closure
Extended Button Tab (change this in Customize)
Side pockets
Side Seam Pockets (change this in Customize)
Back pockets
Standard with Button
Coin pocket
None
Front
Single Pleats
Knee lining
Striped

$295

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the VBC Navy Tropical Fresco Single Pleated Dress Pant in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.