Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Dean Stretch Vintage Straight Jean in Salt Wash Japanese Denim in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Stone Wash Selvedge Denim Carpenter Pant

Drake's carpenter trouser takes its pattern from the work clothes once made for joiners and builders, where extra layers of cloth over the knees took the wear of kneeling on workshop floors. The design keeps that double-knee construction and adds twin-needle seams, copper rivets, slanted side pockets and a utility pocket at the right hip. It is cut from Japanese selvedge denim that has been stone washed, so it arrives softened and faded rather than raw. The cut is a straight leg with a mid-rise, made to be worn as a sturdy everyday trouser.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Dean Stretch Vintage Straight Jean in Salt Wash Japanese Denim

We chose a Japanese indigo denim with a washed, faded finish to come close to the stone-washed colour and the uneven highs and lows of the original. We kept a straight leg, a metal button fly, metal hardware and belt loops. Proper Cloth's trouser options did not include double-knee panels, a hammer loop or the carpenter's pointed slanted pockets, so we made a five-pocket jean with patch back pockets and a coin pocket instead. The cloth also has a small amount of elastane, which the original does not.

A 12oz indigo denim woven in Japan by Nihon Menpu, in 98% cotton with 2% elastane, given a medium salt wash for a faded, worn-in look. It is a mid-weight cloth that wears comfortably for much of the year, the small amount of stretch adds some give without changing how the denim looks, and the indigo will fade further at the pockets and waistband with wear.

Composition
98% Cotton · 2% Elastane
Weight
very heavyweight
Care
Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry

Options

Style
5-Pocket
Front pockets
5-Pocket
Back pockets
Jeans Style Patch Pocket
Fly
Metal Tack Button Fly (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Metal Tack Buttons (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops
Front
No Pleats
Coin pocket
5-Pocket Coin Pocket
Cargo pockets
None
Closure
5-Pocket
Hem
Chain Stitch Hem
Pocketing
Black Herringbone (change this in Customize)
Thread
Standard (change this in Customize)

$275

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Dean Stretch Vintage Straight Jean in Salt Wash Japanese Denim in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.