After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025
Charcoal 12.3oz Japanese Selvedge Denim Five-Pocket Jeans
Drake's five-pocket jean is its standard denim trouser, made in Portugal from a charcoal selvedge cloth woven on shuttle looms in Okayama. The cloth is naturally dyed and washed before making, so the jeans start soft and broken in rather than stiff. The cut is generous, with a higher rise and room through the thigh before a gentle taper to the hem. The house's slanted front pockets, copper hardware and concealed rivets at the back pockets set it apart from a standard western jean.
The original, in the Internet Archive
In Proper Cloth
Dean Stretch Vintage Straight Jean in Charcoal Wash Japanese Denim
We chose a washed dark grey Japanese denim from Nihon Menpu at 12oz, which comes close to the colour and weight of the original. To match the generous fit we used Proper Cloth's vintage straight cut, with its higher rise and room through the thigh, and set a button fly, copper tack buttons, belt loops and a chain-stitched hem. The thread is a rich gold, the nearest to the warm tan stitching on the original. The available cloth contains 2% elastane and is not listed as selvedge, and the straight cut does not taper the way the Drake's leg does.
A 12oz Japanese denim from the mill Nihon Menpu, washed to a dark grey and blended with 2% elastane for a little give. It is a plain solid denim that fades gradually with wear, mainly along the pockets and waistband.
- Composition
- 98% Cotton · 2% Elastane
- Weight
- very heavyweight
- Care
- Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry
Options
- Style
- 5-Pocket
- Front pockets
- 5-Pocket
- Back pockets
- Jeans Style Patch Pocket
- Fly
- Metal Tack Button Fly (change this in Customize)
- Buttons
- Copper Metal Tack Buttons (change this in Customize)
- Waistband
- Belt Loops
- Front
- No Pleats
- Coin pocket
- 5-Pocket Coin Pocket
- Cargo pockets
- None
- Closure
- 5-Pocket
- Hem
- Chain Stitch Hem
- Pocketing
- Black Herringbone
- Thread
- Rich Gold (change this in Customize)
$275
Opens the Dean Stretch Vintage Straight Jean in Charcoal Wash Japanese Denim in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.