Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s Japanese Bone Herringbone Fatigue Pant in this cloth, in its standard design, from propercloth.com

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Ecru Cotton Twill Fatigue Trouser

Drake's fatigue trouser is a version of the army work trouser of the mid twentieth century, cut in a 9.2oz Japanese cotton twill in ecru and made in Portugal. It has a high rise and a flat front, and the full, straight leg sits just above the hip. Reinforced front pockets, flapped rear patch pockets and side adjusters come from the military originals. It is intended as a year-round casual trouser, and the cloth is expected to soften and take on character as it is worn.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Bone Herringbone Fatigue Pant

We chose a Japanese cotton in a pale bone shade because it is the closest Proper Cloth offers to the ecru of the original, although the weave is herringbone rather than plain twill. We used the vintage chino cut with no pleats to match the high rise, flat front and straight leg, and set a button fly, belt loops, buttoned flap pockets at the back and chestnut horn buttons in place of the brown horn-effect ones. Proper Cloth's fatigue front pockets are patch pockets at the hip, so these replace the original's slanted reinforced pockets. The design as made does not include side adjusters, and we relied on belt loops alone.

The cloth is a Japanese woven cotton in a faded bone colour with a herringbone twill weave. At about 350 g it is a medium heavyweight cloth, firm enough for rugged casual trousers. The broken herringbone gives a little texture to an otherwise plain colour, and the cotton should soften as it is worn and washed.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Machine wash with cold, non-chlorine bleach, air dry

Options

Style
Vintage Chino
Front pockets
Fatigue Pockets
Back pockets
Fatigue Back Pocket
Fly
Button Fly (change this in Customize)
Buttons
Chestnut Horn Buttons (change this in Customize)
Waistband
Belt Loops
Front
No Pleats
Coin pocket
None
Cargo pockets
None
Closure
Button Through
Hem
Wide Hem
Pocketing
Off White
Thread
Standard

$265

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens the Japanese Bone Herringbone Fatigue Pant in this cloth. In Customize, change the options marked , then choose your size.