Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

White Oxford Cotton Military Shirt

Drake's military shirt is a white cotton Oxford cut on the house's casual block. It borrows from vintage service shirts, with two pleated chest pockets under button flaps and buttoned shoulder epaulettes, adapted for everyday wear. Mitred single-button cuffs, a box pleat at the back and a locker loop finish the design. The shirt is rinse washed and only lightly pressed, so it feels worn in from the start and is meant to be worn casually as a sturdy, practical layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Washed White Lightweight Oxford

We chose a washed white Oxford to match the original's solid white cloth and its softened, rinsed feel. We set a soft point collar, a front placket, flapped safari chest pockets, epaulettes and mother of pearl buttons to follow the military details. Proper Cloth's cuff choices led us to a one-button barrel cuff in place of the mitred cuff. The box pleat and locker loop are not part of the recorded design.

A solid white Oxford cloth in 100% cotton, woven from 40s two-ply yarns to a lighter, more open weight than a classic heavy Oxford. It is washed for a soft, broken-in hand from new, keeps the faint texture of the Oxford weave, and should soften further with wear and laundering.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
This one also receives a special washing to give it a soft, broken-in feel from day one. Oxford cloth is heavier than business dress shirt fabrics—subtly textured and highly durable, it only gets better the more you wear and wash it. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Safari Pockets
Yoke
Epaulet Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$145

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.