Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Ecru Check Linen-Cotton Mandarin Collar Shirt

This is a summer shirt with a band collar, made at Drake's shirt factory in Somerset. The mandarin, or grandad, collar comes with a pair of deliberately mismatched chest pockets borrowed from workwear. Construction is single-needle, the buttons are mother of pearl, and the shirt is cut in a light linen and cotton blend. It works untucked with shorts or chinos, and is equally suited to lightweight tailoring in warm weather.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Leomaster Beige Small Plaid Italian Linen

We chose a small beige plaid in pure linen from Leomaster because it comes closest to the original's fine check on a pale ground and to its slubby, dry texture. We matched the grandad collar, the one-button barrel cuffs, the twin chest pockets and the mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer a mismatched pocket pair, so we used its utility pockets. It also has no linen-cotton blend of this pattern, so we accepted pure linen at a slightly heavier weight.

An Italian linen from Leomaster, woven in plain weave from 20s single-ply yarn to a medium weight. It feels dry and breathable and drapes easily. The small plaid is in muted beige tones that blend into one another, and the irregular linen yarn makes the check look softer still. It will crease and soften with wear, as linen does.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$255

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.