Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

White Linen Mandarin Collar Shirt

Drake's long-sleeved shirt in white linen has a mandarin, or grandad, collar in place of a conventional collar. It is cut from garment-washed Spanish linen and made in Portugal with the single-needle construction and mother of pearl buttons the house uses across its shirting. A curved flap pocket sits on the chest. Buttoned to the neck it looks spare and exact, and left open it reads as an easy warm-weather shirt.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

White Washed Linen

We chose a white 14s single-ply linen that Proper Cloth washes once the shirt is sewn, which brings it close to the softened, garment-washed handle of the original. We set a grandad collar, a front placket, a single flap chest pocket, a one-piece yoke, one-button barrel cuffs and mother of pearl buttons to match the Drake's details. Proper Cloth offers no option that names knife pleats or single-needle seams, so we took its standard sleeve setting and quarter-inch stitching, and we added a shallow curved hem and a button on the sleeve placket.

A plain-weave pure linen in bright white, spun from 14s single-ply yarn, light in weight with an open, breathable structure and a noticeably slubby surface. The weaver is not named. Shirts in this cloth are washed after sewing, which softens the hand and puckers the seams slightly, and the cloth creases readily in wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$145

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.