Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

White Linen Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

Drake's made this summer shirt in Italy from lightweight white linen. It is a popover, put on over the head, with a mandarin collar, a short buttoned placket and a single map pocket on the chest. The cloth is chosen because it creases and softens with wear, so the shirt is meant to look relaxed in warm weather rather than freshly pressed.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

White Washed Linen

We chose a plain white washed linen in a 14s single-ply yarn because it matches the original's fibre, colour, weight and slightly irregular surface. We set a band collar, a popover front, one chest pocket, a straight hem, one-button barrel cuffs and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth offers no map pocket, so we used a single square patch pocket in its place, and its soft barrel cuff stands in for Drake's rounded cuff with floating interlining. The cloth is washed after sewing, which gives a softer feel and slight puckering at the seams.

A pure linen in plain weave, spun from 14s single-ply yarn, lightweight and open enough to breathe well. It is a solid bright white with the natural slubs of linen, and it creases readily. Shirts in this cloth are washed after making, so they arrive soft and slightly puckered at the seams.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Band
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$145

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.