Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Navy, Yellow and Red Madras Check Cotton Button-Down Popover Shirt

This is a long-sleeved popover shirt in madras, the light Indian check cotton long tied to summer dressing and to the Ivy League wardrobe of the mid-century. The cloth is hand-spun and woven in India, which gives it a slubby, uneven surface, and its natural dyes are meant to run a little in the wash so the colours soften over time. Drake's cut it in a relaxed half-placket shape with a soft button-down collar, a pen-slot pocket, a back box pleat and whipped mother-of-pearl buttons, and made it in Italy. It is a casual warm-weather shirt, worn loose and open at the neck.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Tomato Gold and Navy Indian Madras

We chose a Chennai-woven madras whose tomato red, gold and navy check comes close to the original's main colours and large multi-colour scale. We set a soft, unlined-feeling Ivy button-down collar, a popover front, a single-button cuff, a curved hem, one chest pocket and mother-of-pearl buttons to follow the original's shape. Proper Cloth offers no pen-slot pocket, so we used a plain rounded patch pocket, and a split yoke takes the place of the box pleat at the back. The cloth is sold pre-faded, so it starts with a softened look rather than reaching it through washing.

An Indian madras woven in Chennai as a very lightweight plain weave from 40s single-ply cotton, soft and open in the hand. Its intricate plaid sets tomato red and gold against a faded navy. The cloth has been faded before making up, so it should hold its colour in home washing rather than bleeding.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very lightweight
Care
Our madras shirts are designed to have just the right amount of fade right off the bat so they won't bleed when you wash them at home. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$165

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.