Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Bleach Blue Cotton Chambray Button-Down Popover Shirt

A pullover shirt in pale, washed chambray, cut with a short buttoned opening at the neck rather than a full front. The popover in chambray has long belonged to American dress, and it has been worn in jazz clubs, drawing offices and college quads alike. Drake's makes theirs in Somerset with single-needle seams, a soft rolling button-down collar and two buttoned chest pockets. It is meant to be worn casually, open at the neck, with or without a jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Slate Wash Indigo Chambray

We chose a pure cotton chambray woven in Portugal, the closest solid chambray in the range, though its slate indigo wash is deeper and its weight heavier than Drake's bleached cloth. We set the popover front, a soft unlined-style button-down collar, single-button barrel cuffs, two rounded flap pockets, a shallow curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth does not offer whipped buttons or name single-needle construction, so we used standard mother of pearl buttons and a quarter-inch stitch line.

A 100% cotton chambray from Portugal, woven from 20s yarns and finished with an indigo wash in a slate shade. It sits at a medium weight with a soft, smooth hand, and the wash gives the solid colour some variation that should soften further with laundering.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
Our indigo wash process gives the color interesting character, while the fine weave of the pure cotton provides an elevated feel. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.