Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2023

Blue Linen Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

A lightweight linen popover cut for warm weather, meant to soften and fade with wear. The cloth is woven in Como for Drake's, and the shirt is made in Somerset with the house's usual single-needle stitching and mother of pearl buttons. The band collar and partial front opening make it a relaxed shirt for wearing loose over shorts or chinos, though it can also sit under a summer suit or odd jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Slate Blue Irish Linen

We chose a lightweight plain-weave Irish linen in a solid slate blue, which gives the dry, slubby texture and soft crumple of the original. We kept the grandad collar, popover front, two flapped chest pockets, curved hem and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth offers no pointed pocket flap, so we used rounded flaps, and its one-button barrel cuff takes the place of Drake's rounded cuff. The shirt also has a split yoke and a button on the sleeve placket.

A fine 100% linen in plain weave from Baird McNutt, the Irish mill on the Kellswater River whose history goes back to 1798. It is light, soft and breathable and has the uneven slubbed surface typical of linen. The colour is a solid slate blue, and it will crease and soften with wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.