Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Brown Check Linen Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

A long-sleeved popover in checked linen, made in Drake's Somerset factory on the house's relaxed block. It pairs a Mandarin, or grandad, collar with a six-button partial placket and a pleated front, and is sewn with the single-needle seams Drake's uses across its shirting. The rinse-washed cloth is light and open, so the shirt reads neat and austere when fastened to the collar and looser when left open at the neck.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Leomaster Sage Green Plaid Italian Linen

We chose a 100% linen plaid from Leomaster because it keeps the plain-weave linen and the irregular, muted check that give the original its character. Proper Cloth offers no brown and olive check of this kind, so we settled on a sage green plaid that keeps the soft, faded colouring but shifts the palette. We set a grandad collar, popover front, two-button cuffs and natural corozo buttons to match. Proper Cloth's options gave us a shallow curved hem and split yoke rather than the straight hem and pleated front of the original.

A plain-weave linen from the Italian mill Leomaster, spun from 20s single-ply yarn to a medium weight, with a dry, breathable hand and an easy drape. The plaid is in muted sage tones that blur into one another with the natural slubs of the linen, giving it a rustic, slightly uneven look that should soften further with washing and wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft Square Two Button
Placket
Popover
Pocket
No Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$255

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.