Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Red Check Madras Cotton Button-Down Popover Shirt

A long-sleeved popover shirt in red check madras, made in a limited run with the writer Jason Jules, co-author of Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style. The idea comes from the mid-century Ivy wardrobe, where Indian madras, a button-down collar and a half placket were standard summer fare. It is cut and sewn in Drake's Somerset factory with single-needle seams, a pen pocket and whipped mother of pearl buttons, and is meant to be worn casually in warm weather with pleated trousers and loafers.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Tomato Gold and Navy Indian Madras

We chose a Chennai-woven Indian madras in tomato red, gold and navy because it sits closest to the original's warm red check and its mustard and navy accents. We set a soft unlined-feel button-down collar, a popover front, a single chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's shirt. Proper Cloth offers a barrel cuff rather than a rounded one, a one-piece yoke rather than a split inner yoke and a rounded patch pocket rather than a pen pocket, so we took the nearest of each. Its madras is also pre-faded to limit bleeding, so it will not develop colour change in the same way as the Drake's cloth.

An Indian madras woven in Chennai as a plain weave from 40s single-ply cotton, very light, soft and open in the hand. The plaid combines a strong tomato red with faded navy and gold in an intricate check. It is finished with some fading already in place, so it should hold its colour in home washing rather than bleeding over time.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very lightweight
Care
Our madras shirts are designed to have just the right amount of fade right off the bat so they won't bleed when you wash them at home. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$165

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.