Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Red and White Check Brushed Cotton Two-Pocket Work Shirt

Drake's two-pocket work shirt takes the plain utility shirt of the workshop and the outdoors and makes it in the manner of the firm's dress shirting. It is made in Somerset from a substantial brushed cotton in a red, black and white check. Two pleated button-flap pockets, a spread collar and rounded cuffs supply the workwear character, while single-needle sewing and mother of pearl buttons follow the house's usual shirtmaking. It is intended for casual wear on its own or under a knit or jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Plaid Red and Brown Small Twill

We looked for a soft cotton twill in a red plaid with enough body to wear as a casual autumn shirt, and chose a Somelos twill in red and brown. We kept the main lines of the original: a spread collar, one-button cuffs, a front placket, two flapped chest pockets, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons, all with soft construction to keep the collar and cuffs pliable as the floating interlining does. The available cloth is a smaller check in red and brown rather than a medium red, black and white plaid, and it is a smooth twill, not brushed. Proper Cloth's pocket is a rounded flap pocket rather than a pleated one, so we used that.

A single-ply 50s cotton twill woven by Somelos in Portugal, soft in the hand and offered as a weighty alternative to flannel, although the listing also calls it lightweight. It is a small-scale plaid in shades of red and brown, suited to autumn and winter, and dresses up a little more easily than a brushed cloth.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Medium Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.