Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Red and Blue Stripe Linen Spread Collar Shirt

This is a long-sleeved summer shirt in pure linen, cut with a spread collar and striped in broad bands of red and blue on a white ground. The linen was woven in Como for Drake's, and the shirt was made in Somerset with single-needle seams, mother of pearl buttons and soft brushed interlinings in the collar and cuffs. The idea is that linen is meant to crease and fade, and that this is part of its appeal. It can be worn untucked with shorts or chinos, or with a lightweight suit or separates in warm weather.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Red and Sky Wide Stripe Linen

We chose a Portuguese linen with a wide red and sky blue stripe because it comes closest to the original's broad bands and dry, textured hand. We set a soft English spread collar, soft one-button barrel cuffs, a single flap chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons, all in soft unfused construction, so the collar and cuffs roll gently like Drake's floating interlinings. Proper Cloth offers no single-needle option, so we chose fine 0.1 inch stitching instead. We also added a split yoke and a shallow curved hem, which the original's listing does not mention.

The cloth is a plain-weave linen in 15s yarn from a Portuguese mill. It has the slubby, open texture of rustic linen and a wide stripe in red and sky blue. Proper Cloth lists it as medium weight, although its description calls it light and soft. Like all linen, it creases easily and is meant to be worn rumpled.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.1″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.