Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Brown and Red Madras Check Cotton Button-Down Shirt

A long-sleeved button-down shirt in madras check, the hand-loomed cotton from Chennai long associated with warm-weather dressing. The cloth is woven from a fine, short-staple cotton spun by hand, which gives it an irregular, slubby surface. The make follows the Ivy pattern of the mid-century, with a soft rolled collar, a box pleat at the back and a single patch pocket. It is intended for relaxed summer wear alongside casual trousers and loafers.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Plaid Red and Brown Small Twill

We looked for a red and brown check in all-cotton shirting and chose a small-scale plaid twill from a Portuguese mill, since Proper Cloth offers no true madras. We matched the main lines of the make: a soft Ivy button-down collar, a split yoke, a rounded chest pocket, a one-button cuff, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons. The madras weave, its slubby hand-spun texture and its wider range of colours could not be matched, so the shirt keeps the colour family and the Ivy detailing rather than the cloth's summer character.

A single-ply 50s cotton twill woven by Somelos in Portugal, in a small red and brown plaid. It is soft to the touch and the mill describes it as having more body than ordinary shirting, closer to a lighter alternative to flannel, which makes it better suited to cooler months than to summer.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Medium Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.