Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Olive Linen Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

Drake's made this shirt for warm weather, in a lightweight olive linen that is allowed to crease and fade with wear. It pairs a mandarin collar, also called a grandad collar, with a short three-button popover placket, so it pulls on over the head. A map pocket on the chest and rounded one-button cuffs keep it practical. It is made in Italy with single-needle stitching, and is meant to be worn loose and casually through the summer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Olive Irish Linen

We chose a solid olive linen from Baird McNutt because it matches the original's colour, its light weight and its slightly uneven linen texture. We set a grandad collar, a popover front, a straight hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow Drake's design. Proper Cloth does not offer a map pocket or rounded cuffs, so we chose a single square patch pocket and soft one-button barrel cuffs. We also added a split yoke and a button on the sleeve placket.

A lightweight plain-weave linen in a mid-tone olive green, woven, dyed and finished by Baird McNutt in Northern Ireland from 26s yarn. It has a soft hand with the slubs and irregular surface typical of linen, and like any linen it creases and softens as it is worn.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.