Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

St. JOHN by Drake's Pinstripe Mandarin Collar Shirt

A summer shirt from the St. JOHN by Drake's line, made in the company's Somerset factory. It takes the collarless grandad shape of older workwear and nightshirts and sets it on a light cotton pinstripe, finished to the same standard as the house's formal shirting. It is meant to cross between registers, worn loose over shorts or chinos, or under a lightweight suit or separates in warm weather.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Stanton 120s Pink and Blue Multi Stripe Broadcloth

We kept the shirt's structure close to the original: a band collar, one-button barrel cuffs, a front placket and mother of pearl buttons, with fine stitching in place of single-needle construction. We chose a very light 120s two-ply broadcloth to match the lightness and smooth finish of the original cotton. No ecru and rust pinstripe was available, so the stripe here is pink and blue, which changes the colour of the shirt considerably. Proper Cloth's pocket options led us to rounded flap pockets rather than plain patch pockets.

An Italian cotton broadcloth woven from 120s two-ply yarns, very light, smooth and fairly crisp, with almost no surface texture. It carries a multi stripe in pink and blue on a pale ground. Like most broadcloths it creases more readily than a twill, but it presses well and can be worn unironed for a softer look.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very lightweight
Care
Their lightness tends to make them more prone to wrinkling than twills or pinpoints, however broadcloths iron up nicely and can even be worn washed without ironing for a more casual look. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Band
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.1″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

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Opens with this cloth chosen. Set the options above, then your size.