Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Green Vintage Cotton Spread Collar Popover Shirt

Drake's popover shirt is cut from a cotton twill sourced from vintage military stock, and its olive green colour comes from the same origin. A spread collar and a short buttoned placket sit above a front carrying two patch pockets of different sizes, set asymmetrically in the manner of a map pocket. It is made in Portugal with single-needle seams and corozo buttons, in a relaxed, boxy cut. The intention is a shirt that can be worn untucked with chinos or shorts, or with lightweight summer tailoring.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill

We chose a Japanese selvedge cotton twill in olive because it comes closest to the solid colour and the worn, military-surplus character of the original cloth, and its casual garment wash gives a similar broken-in hand. We set a soft spread collar, a popover front, barrel cuffs, a straight hem and natural corozo buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth does not offer the asymmetric pair of map pockets, so we used a single square patch pocket instead.

A 100% cotton twill woven in Japan on selvedge looms from 20s single-ply yarns, of medium to heavy weight. It is a solid olive green and is washed after the shirt is sewn, which leaves it soft, gives a broken-in feel and puckers the seams slightly. It is a sturdy cloth that should soften further with wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Franklin Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.