Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Drake's by A. Levine Olive Cotton Popover Shirt

Drake's made this limited popover with Aaron Levine. It is a reworked version of the house popover, drawing on archive shirts and on mid-century dress, and is cut in a soft cotton drill woven in Yorkshire. The shirt sits between military issue and Sunday dress, with traditional shirtmaking details such as a box pleat, locker loop and pen-slot pocket alongside a long collar and mother of pearl buttons. It is made in Portugal and suits casual dress, either tucked in or worn loose.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill

We chose a Japanese olive selvedge twill as the nearest match to the original's solid olive cotton drill, a plain diagonal-weave cotton. We kept the popover front, the rounded single-button cuffs, the one-piece yoke, the rounded chest pocket, the curved hem and the mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer a long point collar, so we used its Soft Point collar. The record of the design as made does not list the box pleat, locker loop or pen slot.

This is a 100% cotton twill woven in Japan on selvedge looms from 20s single-ply yarn. It is a solid warm olive and sits at the heavier end of medium weight. After sewing, the shirt goes through a casual wash that leaves the cloth soft with a broken-in feel and puckers the seams slightly.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.