Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2023

Khaki Green Linen Two-Pocket Western Shirt

A summer version of the western shirt, made in England in plain lightweight linen and built with single-needle seams. It keeps the familiar western details of the form: pointed yokes, a shaped front and two flapped chest pockets. The linen is expected to soften, crease and fade with wear, so it suits warm weather and casual dress rather than formal use.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Olive Irish Linen

We chose a solid lightweight Irish linen in a mid-tone olive as the closest available match to the khaki green, with a plain weave and visible slub to give the same dry texture. We set the western front, western yoke and western flap pockets, a point collar, mother of pearl buttons and narrow 0.1 inch edge stitching to follow the original's construction. Proper Cloth's two-button cuff comes with square corners, and we used a shallow curved hem in place of the original's straight hem.

A 100% linen plain weave from Baird McNutt, the Irish mill on the Kellswater River whose history goes back to 1798, woven, dyed and finished in Ireland from 26s yarns. It is lightweight, soft and slightly irregular in texture, in a solid mid-tone olive, and like other linens it creases readily and softens with washing.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft Square Two Button
Placket
Western Front
Pocket
Western Pockets
Yoke
Western Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.1″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.