Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2023

Blue and White Broad Stripe Linen Spread Collar Shirt

Drake's made this summer shirt from a light linen woven in Como, with a broad blue and white stripe about two centimetres wide. It belongs to the house's regular shirting line, with a spread collar and rounded single-button cuffs, both given a brushed floating interlining, plus single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons, and it is sewn in Somerset. The linen is expected to fade and crease with wear. The shirt can be worn untucked with shorts or chinos, or tucked in under a lightweight suit or odd jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Ocean Blue Wide Stripe Linen

We chose a Portuguese wide stripe linen because its stripe is close in scale and its colours are close to the original, and its slubby plain weave has much the same rumpled look. We set a soft English spread collar and a soft one-button cuff, both unfused, to match the unstructured feel of the floating interlinings. We also chose a one-piece yoke and mother of pearl buttons, as on the original. The design as made has a flap on the chest pocket, where the original has a plain patch pocket with rounded corners. The cuff is Proper Cloth's barrel style, not Drake's rounded cuff.

This is a plain weave linen from a Portuguese mill, spun from 15s yarn. It has a wide stripe of faded navy and white and an irregular, rustic surface. Proper Cloth lists it as medium weight but calls it very light and soft to wear. Like most linen it creases easily, and it is meant to be worn creased and relaxed.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.