Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Blue Hickory Stripe Cotton Long Point Collar Popover Shirt

Drake's long point collar popover is a pullover shirt with a partial placket. The style goes back roughly a hundred years and sits close to the centre of the house's range. This version is cut in a blue and white hickory stripe cotton twill with a regular silhouette. It has a floating interlining in the collar, single-needle seams and two flapped chest pockets, and it is made in the company's Somerset factory. It is intended to work both on its own and under tailoring.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Navy Stripe Cotton Linen Oxford

The original's character comes from its narrow blue and white stripe, so we chose a cloth with a white and navy stripe of a similar weight that reads as a softened blue. Proper Cloth had no hickory twill, so we chose a cotton-linen oxford and accepted a slubbier, drier surface. We matched the popover placket, the pair of flapped chest pockets, the one-button cuff and the straight hem. Where the exact details were not offered we used the nearest options: a soft point collar in place of the long point, rounded flaps in place of pointed ones, and mother of pearl buttons for the white ones.

The cloth was developed with the Spanish mill Sidogras and blends just over half linen with cotton in 40s yarns. It is a medium-weight oxford-type weave with visible linen slub, striped in white and navy that looks closer to faded blue in person. It breathes more freely than pure cotton and is more opaque than most blends of this kind, but it creases more readily.

Composition
51% Linen, 49% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.