After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026
Olive Cotton Mandarin Collar Shirt
A long-sleeved shirt with a band collar, made by Drake's at its factory in Somerset. It takes the collarless grandad shirt as its starting point and adds a single curved chest pocket closed with a buttoned flap, with the single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons used across the house's shirts. The cloth is stonewashed before making, so it is soft from the start. Fastened at the neck it reads as plain and spare; open at the collar it sits more casually.
In Proper Cloth
Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill
We chose a Japanese olive selvedge cotton twill. It matches the original's colour and weave, and its casual wash gives a similar broken-in softness. We set a grandad collar, a soft front placket, one flap chest pocket, a one-piece yoke, one-button cuffs and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth offers no straight hem for this design, so we used its shallow curved hem. The cloth is also somewhat heavier than Drake's midweight twill.
A pure cotton twill woven in Japan on selvedge looms from 20s single-ply yarn, in a warm, solid olive green. It sits at the heavier end of medium weight. Each shirt is washed after sewing, so the hand is soft and broken in and the seams pucker slightly. The weave is dense and durable, suited to hard everyday wear.
- Composition
- 100% Cotton
- Weight
- medium heavyweight
- Care
- The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.
Options
- Collar
- Grandad
- Cuffs
- Soft One Button Barrel
- Placket
- Soft Front Placket
- Single Flap Pocket
- Yoke
- One Piece Yoke
- Hem
- Shallow Curved Hem
- Buttons
- Mother of Pearl
- Stitching
- 0.25″ Stitching
- Sleeve placket
- Sleeve placket button
- Adjustable cuffs
- No adjustable cuff buttons
$195
Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.