After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025
Brown Cotton Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt
Drake's popover is a long-sleeved shirt in brown cotton chino, cut with a band collar and a short buttoned front that pulls on over the head. The band collar goes back to the collarless shirts once worn under detachable collars, and the map pocket on the chest comes from older utility clothing. It is made in Italy with single-needle seams and mother-of-pearl buttons. It is meant for warm weather, worn untucked with chinos or shorts, or under a summer suit or odd jacket.
The original, in the Internet Archive
In Proper Cloth
Japanese Olive Cotton Selvedge Twill
We chose a Japanese selvedge cotton twill because it comes close to the solid twill and muted earthy colour of the Drake's chino, though it reads more olive than brown. We set a grandad collar, a popover front, a straight hem, mother-of-pearl buttons and a single chest pocket to follow the original. Proper Cloth does not offer a map pocket or a buttonless straight cuff, so we used a plain square patch pocket and a soft one-button barrel cuff instead. The cloth is washed after sewing, which gives a softer, more broken-in finish than the original's chino.
A solid olive cotton twill woven in Japan on selvedge looms from 20s single-ply yarns, in a medium-heavy weight. Shirts in this cloth are washed after sewing, which leaves a soft, worn-in hand and some puckering along the seams. Selvedge twill of this kind is durable and should soften further with wear.
- Composition
- 100% Cotton
- Weight
- medium heavyweight
- Care
- The finish of this fabric is very soft, like its been loved for many years already, thanks to a special casual wash. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.
Options
- Collar
- Grandad
- Cuffs
- Soft One Button Barrel
- Placket
- Popover
- Single Square Pocket
- Yoke
- One Piece Yoke
- Hem
- Straight Hem
- Buttons
- Mother of Pearl
- Stitching
- Edge Stitching
- Sleeve placket
- No sleeve placket button
- Adjustable cuffs
- No adjustable cuff buttons
$195
Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.