Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Navy Linen Pintuck Military Shirt

Drake's military shirt is a lightweight navy linen piece that takes its cues from vintage service shirts. Its practical details include twin flapped chest pockets, shoulder epaulettes and a pintucked front. Mitred cuffs, a box pleat and a locker loop at the back complete it. It is cut on the house's casual block and made in Somerset, then rinse washed and lightly pressed so that it feels broken in from the start and can be worn loose and untucked in warm weather.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Navy Washed Linen

We chose a washed navy linen in a plain weave because it matches the original's fibre, colour and light weight, and because it is washed after sewing, which gives a similar softened, lived-in finish. We set flapped western chest pockets, epaulettes, a front placket, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original's military outline. Proper Cloth's options offered no pintucked front, box pleat, locker loop or mitred cuff, so the shirt goes without the first three and uses a soft one-button barrel cuff. We also chose a soft semi-spread collar in place of the original's point collar.

The cloth is a pure linen in a 14s single-ply plain weave. It is light and open, with the natural slub of linen giving it an uneven surface. The navy is a washed, slightly softened shade rather than a deep one. Because the shirt is washed after sewing, it comes out soft with some puckering along the seams, and it creases readily in wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
This washed navy has a more relaxed look than a deeper shade, which makes it great for casual looks and more laidback tailored looks, too. Casual Wash: Shirts cut in this fabric are washed after being sewn. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Semi Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Western Pockets
Yoke
Epaulet Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$145

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.