Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Big Yank '1920' Indigo Cotton-Linen Twill Flyer Shirt

Big Yank began in Chicago in 1919 and introduced several details that are now standard in workwear. This Flyer shirt revives the label's 1920 pattern and is made in Japan by 35 Summers in an indigo cotton and linen twill. It keeps the working features of the period, including storm cuffs, a strap at the collar, bar tacks at points of strain and tonal stitching. It is a sturdy work shirt intended to be worn open over a T-shirt or buttoned as a light outer layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Rustic Navy Slub Twill

We looked for a solid dark twill with some surface character to stand in for the indigo cotton and linen, and chose a slubby navy cotton twill woven in Japan. We matched the point collar, front placket, curved hem, dark buttons and patch chest pockets, and chose double stitching to suggest the reinforced build of the original. Proper Cloth does not offer storm cuffs or a collar strap, so we used one-button barrel cuffs and a plain soft point collar instead, with a soft unstructured make to keep the casual feel.

A heavyweight all-cotton twill woven in Japan from thick, single-ply yarns, which gives it a pronounced slubby surface and a rough, hard-wearing hand. The colour is a dark navy with slight variation through the cloth, and it suits a rugged, casual shirt that softens with wear.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
Double Stitch Yoke
Hem
Medium Curved Hem
Buttons
Black Roma
Stitching
Double Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.