Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

St. JOHN by Drake's Pinstripe Button-Down Shirt

The button-down shirt in oxford cloth has been part of the menswear vocabulary for roughly a hundred years, and Drake's treats it as one of the founding pieces of its range. This limited edition, made in the company's Somerset factory, uses a white ground with a fine navy pinstripe in a cotton and linen oxford. It is built around a soft, rolling collar with a brushed floating interlining, finished with single-needle stitching, and cut to a regular silhouette for wear with tailoring or on its own.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Navy Stripe Cotton Linen Oxford

We looked for a white and navy striped oxford with some linen in it, and chose a cotton and linen blend from the Spanish mill Sidogras that keeps the oxford's substance while adding visible slub. We set a soft button-down collar to give the roll, with a soft unfused front placket, a one-button cuff and mother of pearl buttons, to stay close to the original's soft construction. Proper Cloth's cloth carries far more linen than the Drake's, and the pocket we set is angled rather than a plain patch, which was the closest option available.

A medium-weight cotton and linen blend woven in 40s yarns by Sidogras in Spain, with a substantial oxford-like hand and the gentle slub that linen brings. The white and navy stripe reads soft and slightly faded in person, and the cloth is more opaque and durable than most blends of this kind, though it creases more readily than pure cotton oxford.

Composition
51% Linen, 49% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Angled Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.