Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2021

Dark Navy Linen Spread Collar Summer Shirt

This is a casual long-sleeved summer shirt in dark navy linen, made in Somerset, England. It has an easy spread collar, a front placket and a single patch pocket on the chest. The collar and cuffs carry a brushed floating interlining, so they keep some shape without stiffness. The shirt is cut to a regular fit and suits warm weather, worn open at the neck on its own or under a light jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Navy Irish Linen

We chose a navy plain-weave linen from Baird McNutt because it matches the original's solid dark colour, its light weight and the slightly uneven texture of linen. We set a soft English spread collar, soft one-button barrel cuffs, a front placket, a shallow curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original's details. The version as made has an angled chest pocket and a split yoke, where the Drake's shirt has a plain patch pocket. Its collar and cuffs use Proper Cloth's soft construction rather than a brushed floating interlining.

This is a lightweight plain-weave linen in solid navy, woven, dyed and finished by Baird McNutt, a mill in Northern Ireland whose roots go back to 1798. It is spun from 26s yarn and has a soft hand with linen's natural slubs and irregularities. It wears cool and breathable, and it creases as linen does.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Angled Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.