Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Dark Blue Cotton Chambray Button-Down Shirt

Drake's dark blue chambray button-down takes its cue from the American work and campus shirts of the early twentieth century, a type the house has long treated as central to its range. It is cut in England, at the company's Somerset factory, to a regular silhouette, with a soft rolling collar held by a floating interlining and sewn with single-needle seams. It sits easily with tailoring or with jeans and knitwear, and wears as comfortably under a jacket as it does open over a T-shirt.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Navy Brushed Chambray

We chose a dark navy, solid cotton chambray from Portugal to match the colour and plain face of the original, accepting that it is brushed and somewhat heavier than Drake's midweight cloth. We set a soft, unfused button-down collar to approach the rolling collar, with a front placket, a single flap chest pocket, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons as on the original. Proper Cloth offers a one-button barrel cuff instead of Drake's rounded cuff, so we used that, and the build as made does not specify a back box pleat or contrast stitching.

A 100% cotton chambray woven in Portugal from 20s single-ply yarns, in a dark navy with no pattern. It is a medium heavyweight cloth with a firm structure, brushed on the surface so that the hand is soft and close to flannel, which makes it warmer than an ordinary chambray and better suited to cooler months.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.