Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Johnston Tartan Check Wool Two-Pocket Work Shirt

Drake's work shirt draws on plain utility clothing and is cut in a brushed wool tartan here, worn as a heavy shirt or a light overlayer. Its two pleated pockets with button flaps take small items so that trouser pockets can stay empty, and the spread collar and rounded cuffs keep it easy to move in. It is made in Somerset with single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons, as is usual for the house's shirts, and is suited to weekends outdoors and casual dress in town.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Blackwatch Tartan Flannel

We chose a Japanese cotton flannel in Black Watch tartan because its deep navy and green come closest to the dark ground of the Johnston check, and its thick, brushed surface gives some of the weight and warmth of wool. We matched the spread collar, front placket, one-button cuffs, two flapped chest pockets, one-piece yoke, curved hem and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth has no wool tartan of this kind and no listed option for a back box pleat or pleated pockets, so we used plain rounded flap pockets and a plain yoke, and the mustard and black overchecks are not carried over.

A heavyweight cotton flannel woven in Japan from 30s single-ply yarn in a pronounced twill, napped to a thick, soft hand. It is a Black Watch tartan in deep navy and forest green that reads almost black from a distance. It is warm without being stifling and, unlike the wool original, it does not need dry cleaning.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.