Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2023

Blue Check Cotton Linen Button-Down Shirt

This is a button-down shirt from Drake's, made in the house's Somerset factory, in a lightweight cloth of linen and cotton. The button-down collar has been worn for about a century and is central to the Drake's range. This version has a regular silhouette and a softly rolling collar with a brushed, floating interlining, and it is sewn with single-needle seams. The large teal, navy and ecru check and the open, dry cloth make it a warm-weather shirt that can be worn tucked or untucked, with tailoring or casual trousers.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Albini Blue Navy and Ivory Linen Madras

We chose an Albini pure linen madras in blue, navy and ivory because it matches the original's lightweight, summery feel and its large, irregular check. We used a soft button-down collar and soft one-button cuffs to keep the relaxed, unstructured character, and we matched the split yoke, curved hem, front placket and mother-of-pearl buttons. Proper Cloth had no linen-cotton twill in a comparable check, so we took a plain-weave pure linen instead. We also chose its angled chest pocket where the original has a straight patch pocket.

A lightweight pure linen madras in a 23s yarn, woven in plain weave by Albini of Italy. The blue, navy and ivory plaid has the slightly irregular look typical of madras. The cloth has a dry hand and an open structure, and it is washed before cutting so it starts out soft and keeps softening with wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
The casual wash does the work of a full season's wear before you've tried it on, softening the linen from the first morning you reach for it. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Angled Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.