Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Stone Wash Denim Two-Pocket Western Shirt

Drake's has taken the western shirt, a working garment of the American ranch long since absorbed into everyday dress, and made it in England with single-needle seams. The cloth is a 7.6oz cotton denim, dyed with indigo and stone washed, and it is meant to fade and soften over years of wear. Twin flap pockets and pointed yokes keep the western outline, while the restrained colour lets it sit over a T-shirt or under a casual jacket.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Albiate Light Wash Indigo Denim

We chose a light washed indigo twill from Albiate, the Italian mill, because its pale, slightly uneven blue is close to the stone-washed shade of the original and Proper Cloth washes the finished garment, so the colour fades at the seams. We set the western front, western pockets and western yoke to match, with two-button cuffs and quarter-inch stitching. Proper Cloth has no dedicated western collar or straight vented hem, so we used a soft point collar and a shallow curved hem, and we took natural corozo buttons, which Drake's own text also mentions alongside mother of pearl.

A 100% cotton twill from Cotonificio Albiate in Italy, medium in weight, with a smooth finish and a soft drape. It is dyed heavily with indigo and then bleach washed after the shirt is sewn, which gives a light blue with some variation in tone and paler fading along the seams.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
The light indigo color of this fabric features subtle variation and is achieved through the reaction of the indigo dye with a heavy bleach wash. From sourcing the perfect denim from Japan and a 185-year-old mill in Italy to testing washes with our factory for months on end, we labor over every detail of our washed indigo shirts. After being cut and sewn, the shirts are then garment washed using either a light enzyme, soda, or bleaching process. While garment washed indigo and denim shirts are a popular product in the ready-to-wear market, they haven‘t previously been available in a custom fit or design due to the bulk production required for the washing process. We‘ve worked closely with our suppliers to bring you the first truly custom garment washed indigo and denim shirts on the market. Premium, carefully crafted shirts, made to your exact specifications. Learn more about our washed indigo and denim shirts here. Note that, due to the special nature of the garment washing process, this fabric can only be made using soft, unfused collars, cuffs, and fronts/plackets. Since our limited-run garment washed indigo and denim fabrics are made in small batches with a special process, fabric swatches are not available. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft Square Two Button
Placket
Western Front
Pocket
Western Pockets
Yoke
Western Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$235

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.