Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2026

Navy, White and Yellow Madras Check Cotton Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

Drake's made this shirt for warm weather from Indian madras, a hand-spun cotton known for its slubbed, irregular surface, its open handle and colours that soften with washing. It pairs a navy, white and yellow check with a mandarin collar and a partial popover placket, so it pulls on over the head. A map pocket sits on the chest. The shirt is made in Somerset with single-needle seams and is cut loose enough to wear untucked.

The original, on drakes.com

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Navy and Blue Plaid Twill

We kept the shape of the original: a grandad collar, a popover front, one chest pocket, rounded one-button cuffs and mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth offered no madras that suited the piece, so we chose a navy and blue plaid cotton twill to carry the check in a darker, cooler palette. The twill has a smooth, even surface rather than madras slub, and it gives up the original's yellow and white. Where the options differed, we chose a square patch pocket in place of the angled map pocket, and a one-piece yoke and straight hem from the standard menu.

A single-ply 50s cotton twill woven by Somelos in Portugal, soft in the hand and described by the maker as a medium-weight cloth for autumn and winter. It is a navy and blue plaid. The mill presents it as a lighter alternative to flannel that can be worn smarter or more casually.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
lightweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$175

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.