Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Big Yank '1935' Ecru Chambray Shirt

This is a reissue of the 1935 work shirt from Big Yank, a Chicago workwear label founded in 1919 and credited with several construction details still common in work clothing. The current version is made in Japan by 35 Summers in a sturdy ecru chambray. It keeps the period features: storm cuffs, triple-needle seams, bar-tack reinforcement and a pair of mismatched chest pockets. The cut is relaxed and boxy, so it can be worn as a shirt or as a light overshirt.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Natural Slub Chambray

We chose a Japanese undyed slub chambray because its creamy ground and speckled, irregular yarns are close to the pale, textured cloth of the original, and its weight is similar. We matched the point collar, single-button barrel cuffs, front placket and curved hem, and used Proper Cloth's utility pockets to give the shirt two flapped chest pockets. Proper Cloth offers no asymmetric pocket pair, storm cuff or triple-needle seam, so we used its utility pockets, a standard barrel cuff and double stitching throughout, and finished the shirt with cream horn buttons.

A medium-heavyweight plain-weave chambray from Japan in 16s cotton, left undyed in a creamy natural shade. Slubbed yarns and natural flecks give it a visibly irregular, dimensional surface. It is a sturdy casual cloth that suits a soft, unfused make.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
Double Stitch Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Cream Horn
Stitching
Double Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

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