Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Big Yank '1942' Indigo Chambray Shirt

Big Yank began in Chicago in 1919 and introduced several details that are still common in workwear. This 1942 model is now made in Japan by 35 Summers, following the brand's wartime work shirt. It is cut from a firm, sanforised cotton chambray, with bar tacks at the stress points, storm cuffs and a pair of mismatched flap pockets. It is meant for hard everyday wear, on its own or as a light layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Light Wash Indigo Slub Chambray

We chose a Portuguese indigo chambray because it is the closest cloth in weave and weight to the sturdy original, and its slub yarns give the surface some character. Because it is a light wash, its blue is paler and more faded than Drake's deeper indigo. We set a point collar, one-button barrel cuffs, a front placket, a curved hem and navy buttons to match. Proper Cloth offers neither storm cuffs nor the asymmetrical gacha pockets, so we used its standard barrel cuff and utility pockets instead.

This is a 100% cotton chambray woven in Portugal from 20s yarns, with an indigo warp crossed by a white weft, at a medium to heavy weight. Slub yarns make the surface uneven, and the light wash gives it a soft, faded blue from new. It breathes well and becomes softer with each wash.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
A light wash indigo slub chambray from Portugal, with the broken-in texture of a well-worn work shirt. This one comes in a light wash, so the indigo looks soft and faded from the first wear. It’s woven in Portugal from 100% cotton, breathes easily, and softens with every wash. Tuck it into khaki chinos under a waxed field jacket, or wear it open over a white tee with rinse-wash denim. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
Double Stitch Yoke
Hem
Medium Curved Hem
Buttons
Navy Corozo
Stitching
Double Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.