Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Chambray Cotton Mandarin Collar Shirt

This is a long-sleeved shirt in plain blue cotton chambray, made in Drake's shirt factory in Somerset. It pairs a band collar, often called a grandad collar, with two chest pockets of different shapes taken from workwear. It is built the same way as the rest of the house's shirts, with single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons. It is meant for warm weather, worn loose over shorts or chinos or tucked in under a summer suit or odd jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Light Wash Indigo Slub Chambray

We chose a Portuguese indigo chambray in a light wash because it is the closest match for the soft, faded blue of the original, and its slub yarn gives the plain surface a little texture. We kept the grandad collar, the front placket, the one-button cuffs and the mother of pearl buttons. Proper Cloth does not offer two pockets of different shapes, so we used rounded flap pockets on both sides, which keeps the workwear feel. The cloth is also heavier than the original's, and the shirt is cut on a pattern with a split yoke and a shallowly curved hem.

A 100% cotton chambray woven in Portugal from 20s yarns, with an indigo warp across a white weft. It is a light wash, so it looks faded from new, and its slub yarns give it an uneven, slightly rustic surface. It is a medium to heavy weight that breathes well and gets softer each time it is washed.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
A light wash indigo slub chambray from Portugal, with the broken-in texture of a well-worn work shirt. This one comes in a light wash, so the indigo looks soft and faded from the first wear. It’s woven in Portugal from 100% cotton, breathes easily, and softens with every wash. Tuck it into khaki chinos under a waxed field jacket, or wear it open over a white tee with rinse-wash denim. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Grandad
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Flap Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
Edge Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.