Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
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Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2025

Bleach Wash Denim Military Shirt

Drake's military shirt takes its design from vintage service shirts and cuts it in light blue cotton denim on the house's casual block. Two pleated chest pockets with scalloped flaps and shoulder epaulettes show where it comes from. Mitred single-button cuffs, a box pleat and a locker loop complete the design. The shirt is rinse washed and lightly pressed so it feels soft from the start, and it is meant as a casual shirt or a light overshirt. It is made in Portugal.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Albiate Light Wash Indigo Denim

We chose a light indigo cotton twill from Albiate. It is bleach washed after making up, which gives the soft, faded look of the original's bleach wash denim. To match the military details we set a soft point collar, flapped safari pockets, an epaulette yoke, a curved hem and natural corozo buttons. Proper Cloth offers no mitred cuff, so we chose a soft one-button barrel cuff. The design as made lists no box pleat or locker loop.

The cloth is a 100% cotton denim twill from the Italian mill Albiate. It is listed as medium weight, with a smooth surface and a gentle drape. The finished shirt is heavily bleach washed, which turns the indigo a light shade with slight variation and leaves fading along the seams.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
The light indigo color of this fabric features subtle variation and is achieved through the reaction of the indigo dye with a heavy bleach wash. From sourcing the perfect denim from Japan and a 185-year-old mill in Italy to testing washes with our factory for months on end, we labor over every detail of our washed indigo shirts. After being cut and sewn, the shirts are then garment washed using either a light enzyme, soda, or bleaching process. While garment washed indigo and denim shirts are a popular product in the ready-to-wear market, they haven‘t previously been available in a custom fit or design due to the bulk production required for the washing process. We‘ve worked closely with our suppliers to bring you the first truly custom garment washed indigo and denim shirts on the market. Premium, carefully crafted shirts, made to your exact specifications. Learn more about our washed indigo and denim shirts here. Note that, due to the special nature of the garment washing process, this fabric can only be made using soft, unfused collars, cuffs, and fronts/plackets. Since our limited-run garment washed indigo and denim fabrics are made in small batches with a special process, fabric swatches are not available. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Safari Pockets
Yoke
Epaulet Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Natural Corozo
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$235

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.