Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Big Yank '1935' Blue Chambray Shirt

Big Yank started in Chicago in 1919 and introduced a number of details that workwear still uses. This shirt revives one of its 1935 designs and is made in Japan by 35 Summers. It is a sturdy chambray work shirt with triple-needle seams, bar tacks at the points of strain, storm cuffs and a pair of mismatched chest pockets. It is intended for hard everyday wear, either tucked in or worn loose over trousers.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Portuguese Light Wash Indigo Slub Chambray

We chose a Portuguese indigo slub chambray to match the original's all-cotton blue chambray and its workwear character. Its slubby, light-washed surface comes closer to the look of a worn work shirt than a smooth, even chambray would. We matched the point collar, single-button barrel cuffs, front placket, curved hem and dark buttons, choosing navy corozo. Proper Cloth offers neither the asymmetrical Gacha pockets nor triple-needle seams, so we used its utility pockets and double stitching instead.

The cloth is a 100% cotton chambray woven in Portugal from 20s yarns. An indigo warp crosses a white weft, and the cloth sits at the heavier end of medium weight. It has a light wash, so the blue looks soft and faded from the first wear, and the slub yarns give the surface an uneven texture. It breathes well and softens with washing.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium heavyweight
Care
A light wash indigo slub chambray from Portugal, with the broken-in texture of a well-worn work shirt. This one comes in a light wash, so the indigo looks soft and faded from the first wear. It’s woven in Portugal from 100% cotton, breathes easily, and softens with every wash. Tuck it into khaki chinos under a waxed field jacket, or wear it open over a white tee with rinse-wash denim. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Point
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
Double Stitch Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Navy Corozo
Stitching
Double Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.