Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Vintage Blue Cotton Chambray Button-Down Shirt

Drake's chambray button-down belongs to a type of shirt that has been worn for roughly a hundred years, first as workwear and later as a casual staple. Made in the company's Somerset factory, it has a regular cut, single-needle seams and a collar built with a brushed, floating interlining so that the points roll softly rather than lying flat. It sits easily between casual and smarter dress and is meant to be worn often.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Albiate Light Wash Indigo Denim

We chose a light-wash indigo cotton from Albiate because it is a solid, faded blue close in tone to the original's washed chambray. Proper Cloth's lighter indigo cloths in this range are woven as twill rather than plain-weave chambray, so we accepted a smoother, slightly heavier cloth in exchange for the right colour. We set a soft button-down collar, soft front placket, one-piece yoke, curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original. Proper Cloth offers no mitred flap pocket, so we used its angled open pocket, and we chose a soft one-button barrel cuff as the nearest available match to the rounded cuff.

A medium-weight 100% cotton twill from the Italian mill Albiate, dyed heavily with indigo and then garment washed with bleach after sewing to reach a light blue. It has a smooth surface and an easy drape, with slight variation in shade and some fading along the seams from the wash.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
medium weight
Care
The light indigo color of this fabric features subtle variation and is achieved through the reaction of the indigo dye with a heavy bleach wash. From sourcing the perfect denim from Japan and a 185-year-old mill in Italy to testing washes with our factory for months on end, we labor over every detail of our washed indigo shirts. After being cut and sewn, the shirts are then garment washed using either a light enzyme, soda, or bleaching process. While garment washed indigo and denim shirts are a popular product in the ready-to-wear market, they haven‘t previously been available in a custom fit or design due to the bulk production required for the washing process. We‘ve worked closely with our suppliers to bring you the first truly custom garment washed indigo and denim shirts on the market. Premium, carefully crafted shirts, made to your exact specifications. Learn more about our washed indigo and denim shirts here. Note that, due to the special nature of the garment washing process, this fabric can only be made using soft, unfused collars, cuffs, and fronts/plackets. Since our limited-run garment washed indigo and denim fabrics are made in small batches with a special process, fabric swatches are not available. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Angled Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$235

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.