Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Navy Wide Stripe Linen Spread Collar Shirt

A summer shirt in lightweight linen, cut with a spread collar and a broad stripe on a white ground. Its premise is that linen should look lived in: the cloth softens, creases and fades with wear, and the shirt is designed with that in mind. It is made in Somerset with the single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons found throughout Drake's shirting. It can be worn untucked with shorts or chinos, or tucked in beneath a summer suit or odd jacket.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Light Blue Wide Stripe Irish Linen

We chose an Irish linen from Baird McNutt because it is a lightweight plain weave with a wide stripe and the slightly irregular, textured surface that gives the original its relaxed look. We set a soft spread collar, a soft front placket, one-button cuffs, a single chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons to follow the original's details. The nearest stripe offered is light blue rather than navy, so the shirt reads paler. We also chose a flap pocket where the original has a plain patch pocket.

A 100% linen plain weave in 26s yarn, woven and finished by Baird McNutt in Northern Ireland, a mill with roots on the Kellswater River going back to 1798. It is light and soft in the hand, with the slubby irregularity typical of linen, and shows a wide light blue stripe on white. Like any linen, it creases readily and softens with washing.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Single Flap Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.