Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2023

Navy Madras Check Cotton Two-Pocket Work Shirt

This is Drake's work shirt made up in a navy madras check, cut from a substantial brushed cotton. Its pattern follows the workwear shirt, with two pleated chest pockets closed by buttoned flaps, set on a spread collar and rounded single-button cuffs. It is made in Somerset with single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons, as the rest of the house's shirting is. It is meant for casual wear and works as a shirt or as a light outer layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Gold and Navy Low Twist Plaid

We chose a heavy Japanese low twist twill plaid because its navy and gold colouring and textured surface come closest to the weight and dark check of the original. We set a soft English spread collar, soft one-button barrel cuffs, a front placket, utility chest pockets, a medium curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's pattern. Proper Cloth offers no pleated button-flap pocket under that name, so we used its utility pocket. Its cloth is not brushed, so the soft hand comes from the low twist yarn instead.

A very heavyweight cotton twill woven for Proper Cloth by a small Japanese mill that specialises in casual cloths, made from low twist 20s three-ply yarns. The yarns are loosely spun, which gives the cloth a soft, rustic hand. The gold and navy plaid has uneven, almost tweedy colouring that the twill makes more pronounced. It is made for cooler weather and should prove warm and hard-wearing.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Utility Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Medium Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.