Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Autumn/Winter 2022

Yellow and Navy Check Cotton Two-Pocket Work Shirt

Drake's work shirt takes the practical overshirt of the outdoor labourer and makes it in the manner of the firm's dress shirting. Here it is cut from a brushed cotton in a large yellow and navy check, with two pleated flap pockets on the chest, a spread collar and rounded single-button cuffs. It is made in Somerset with single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons, and is intended for casual wear in town or country, on its own or as a light layer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Japanese Gold and Navy Low Twist Plaid

We looked for a cotton plaid that carried the same pairing of warm yellow and deep navy at a generous scale, and chose a heavy Japanese low-twist twill whose irregular, tweedy colouring gives something of the rustic depth of the brushed original. We set a soft spread collar, one-button cuffs, two pleated button-flap chest pockets, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's shirt. Proper Cloth does not offer this check as a brushed flannel, so the texture comes from the twill weave and loose yarns rather than from a napped surface, and the cloth is heavier than the original's midweight.

A very heavy cotton twill woven for Proper Cloth by a small Japanese mill that specialises in casual cloths, using low-twist 20s three-ply yarns for a soft, slightly loose hand with a rustic surface. The plaid mixes shades of gold and navy unevenly, so the check reads with a tweed-like irregularity, and the weight suits it to cold-weather wear as a shirt or light overshirt.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very heavyweight
Care
Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft English Spread
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Safari Pockets
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$195

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.