Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Navy and Yellow Madras Check Cotton Button-Down Shirt

This is a long-sleeved button-down shirt in madras, the light check cotton from Chennai, the city once called Madras, that has been a warm-weather standard for decades. The cloth is spun from short-staple cotton by hand, which gives it an irregular, slubby surface, and its check carries the colours associated with the natural dyes madras traditionally uses. Drake's make it in their Somerset factory with single-needle seams and a soft button-down collar that recalls American Ivy dress of the mid-twentieth century. It is intended for casual summer wear with relaxed trousers and loafers.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Faded Navy and Sage Indian Madras

We chose a very lightweight Indian madras woven in Chennai for its comparable weight, origin and plain-weave construction, and because its navy-led plaid with yellow and cream sits close to the original's palette. We set a soft unlined button-down collar, a one-button cuff, a single chest pocket, a curved hem and mother of pearl buttons to follow the Drake's pattern. Proper Cloth's options do not include a pen-slot pocket, so we chose a rounded patch pocket. The cloth's colouring is also more subdued than the original's, with sage in place of red and bright green.

A plain-weave madras woven in Chennai from 40s single-ply cotton, very light, soft and open in hand. It is a fairly intricate plaid in faded navy, sage green, pale yellow and cream. The cloth is washed down at the mill, so it starts out softened and should not bleed colour when laundered at home.

Composition
100% Cotton
Weight
very lightweight
Care
Our madras shirts are designed to have just the right amount of fade right off the bat so they won't bleed when you wash them at home. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft Ivy Button Down
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Soft Front Placket
Pocket
Rounded Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Shallow Curved Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$165

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.