Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2025

Indigo Stripe Cotton Mandarin Collar Popover Shirt

This is a long-sleeved summer popover, made in Somerset from a Japanese indigo-dyed selvedge cotton. It pairs a band collar and a short four-button placket with conventional shirtmaker's details: single-needle seams, square cuffs gathered into pleats, and a flat hem. The result is a relaxed shirt for warm weather that still shows careful making. It is meant to be worn loose and untucked through the hotter months.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Blue Irish Linen Stripe

We could not find a Japanese indigo selvedge cotton in Proper Cloth's range, so we chose a lightweight striped Irish linen in blue. It keeps the cool, airy feel of the original and its narrow vertical stripe. We matched the band collar, popover front, mother of pearl buttons and straight hem. Proper Cloth does not offer gathered square cuffs, so we used a soft one-button barrel cuff instead.

The cloth is a plain-weave linen in 25s yarn, woven and finished in Northern Ireland by Baird McNutt. It is light, soft and textured, with the slightly irregular surface typical of linen, and has a blue stripe. Like all linen it creases readily and softens with wear and washing.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Band
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
No Pocket
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.2″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.