Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

Blue Stripe Linen Smock Shirt

Drake's blue and white striped linen shirt is a summer popover cut on the lines of a traditional smock. It closes at the neck with a button and loop rather than a full front placket, and has smock sleeves, a soft smock collar, a chest patch pocket and a second pocket inside. It is made in the firm's Somerset factory with single-needle seams and mother of pearl buttons. The linen is meant to crease and soften, and its colour to fade, over a season of warm-weather wear.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Blue Irish Linen Stripe

We chose a lightweight blue and white striped Irish linen in plain weave because its fibre, weight and colouring are close to the original. We set the shirt as a popover with a soft one-piece collar, a single square chest pocket and mother of pearl buttons, which keeps the relaxed, unstructured feel of a smock. Proper Cloth does not offer a loop neck fastening, smock sleeves or an interior pocket, so we used a short buttoned popover placket, soft one-button barrel cuffs and a single outside pocket instead.

A 25s plain-weave linen woven and finished by Baird McNutt, the Irish mill on the Kellswater River. It is light and soft, with the slightly irregular, slubby surface typical of linen, and has a blue and white stripe. Like any linen it creases readily and softens with washing and wear.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Popover
Pocket
Single Square Pocket
Yoke
Split Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
No sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with this cloth chosen. Set the options above, then your size.