Proper Cloth in the Key of Drake’s
Account
Proper Cloth’s drawing of this design, from its shirt designer

After Drake’s · Spring/Summer 2024

St. JOHN by Drake's Indigo Stripe Linen Camp Collar Long Sleeve Shirt

Drake's sells this long-sleeved camp collar shirt under its St. JOHN label, and it is made by hand in Somerset. It is a new version of a familiar warm-weather shirt, cut loose in a light linen with a fine indigo and ecru stripe. The open collar, two chest pockets and straight hem mean it can be worn untucked in high summer.

The original, in the Internet Archive

In Proper Cloth

Baird McNutt Blue Irish Linen Stripe

We chose a lightweight plain weave Irish linen with a blue stripe as the closest match to the soft, open linen and fine stripe of the original. We used Proper Cloth's soft one-piece collar to give the flat, open collar of a camp shirt, and we matched the one-button barrel cuffs, straight hem and mother of pearl buttons. We could not get flapless patch pockets on the front placket, so we chose a French front and rounded flap pockets without buttons.

The cloth is a 100% linen plain weave from Baird McNutt, an Irish mill on the Kellswater River whose history goes back to 1798. It is light, with a 25s yarn count, and has the soft feel and slightly irregular surface typical of linen. It is a blue stripe on a pale ground and should wear cool and crease easily.

Composition
100% Linen
Weight
lightweight
Care
Though it’s historically been used in many different environments for its insulating properties, we’re all familiar with linen’s fantastic lightness and breathability in hotter climates, and this one delivers beyond expectation. Finish: No Treatment.

Options

Collar
Soft One Piece
Cuffs
Soft One Button Barrel
Placket
Italian Front
Pocket
Rounded Flap No Button Pockets
Yoke
One Piece Yoke
Hem
Straight Hem
Buttons
Mother of Pearl
Stitching
0.25″ Stitching
Sleeve placket
Sleeve placket button
Adjustable cuffs
No adjustable cuff buttons

$185

Open in Proper Cloth

Opens with every option set. Choose your size there.